Italians too celebrate these holidays which in Italian are called Tutti i Santi or Ognissanti, and in honor I present some views of the Venice Cemetary located on San Michele Island.
During my several short-stay visits to Venice, I have often wanted to visit this cemetary island but never found the time and never justified the cost of an additional separate vaparetto ticket that presently costs 6.50 euros per trip.. This year having a week's stay in Venice, I purchased a 7-day vaporetto pass, which permited unlimited travel.
As much as the Murano and Burano islands are touristy, they still make a nice day excursion from Venice. Going to and from Venice to these islands, you pass San Michele. And while waiting for a return vaporetto from Murano, this view convinced me to visit the cemetary.
San Michele, although a small island, it is much larger and more populated (if I can use that term) than the Nice cemetary. Since 1837, it has been the only cemetary for Venice, except for the Jewish cemetary located on the Lido.
Soon after entering the cemetary, you will see a clositer on your left, but to your right you see a curving arcade of individual chapels; the family name incribed at the threshold of each door. You cannot see beyond the door on the majority of these chaples, but a few afford a view beyond due to age and decay. Like Nice, the chapels and crypts are well maintained except for a few where lack of family survivors has allowed corruption of the infrastructure. This chapel may appear to have been desicrated, but most likely the damage has been caused by the roof partially collapsing.
Past this curving arcade, the cemetary opens to a vast graveyard. Even though an island, you feel like you are in a much larger space.
The graveyard spreads out in multiple directions and is divided into sections; for seamen, soldiers, foreigners etc. I believe the next photo is of the airman section (He looks like an aviator...NO?). Although the inscription on the beautiful markers behind the bust I think refers to the navy.
IL CAPITANO DEL GENIO NAVA E LUIGI BRESCIANI. LE SUE NO VISSI AME ARMI. ALATE NON COSTRUIVA SE NON PER MEGLIO COMBAT TERE. E AIL ARTE SUA EROICA SACRIFICO LA SUA CANDIDA VITA. XIII MARZO MDCCCLXXXVIII
I need to work on this translation, but iTranslate puts it something like this:
THE CAPTAIN OF THE GENIUS NAVA AND LUIGI BRESCIANI. IT IS NO VISSI AME WEAPONS. WINGED NOT BUILT TO BETTER COMPATE TERE. AIL AND HIS HEROIC SACRIFICE ART HIS CANDID LIFE. 13 MARCH 1888
Except for the older crypts, all new burials after 12 years are exhumed and either moved or cremated and placed in one of the surrounding monolithic cryptoriums.
There is so much to see here, but it needs time. The beauty needs to be searched for and whereas the cemetary in Nice was compact and conducive to introspection, San Michele overloads ones senses. Like a museum, I would only take this cemetary in short visits. So I leave you with just a few images that I found interesting.
If you care to compare cemetaries please revisit the la toussaint deuxieme partie (Nice cemetary) posting on my old blog rogerslifesillusions:
3 comments:
Roger,
These photos and descriptions are fantastic. And you look great by the way. Thanks for sharing,
Maryann Preston
Once again you have given me the privilege of experiencing a corner of the world I would never have had the opportunity to see. Always interesting and enjoyable. Thanks ~Deb
Roger, thanks for sharing these beautiful images. Where to next?! Hope all is well. Nick
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